17 ก.ค. 2556

Chiang Mai: Street food



Travellers who have been to Thailand will tell you : the best food is in the street. Forget those touristy restaurants serving overpriced dishes often pale copies of the real Thai recipes. Feel the authentic taste of Thai cooking among Thai people. Eating in the street has nothing to do with social status, it is quite common to see luxury cars stopping at those food stalls for a lunch break or an early dinner. Of course it is cheap, (imagine a spicy soup + a pork and rice dish + a fruit + water and ice for... 40 baht) but most of all it is good!
OK for that price you'll have to eat at a small ordinary table sitting on a red or blue plastic stool right on the side walk... in the evening you might see the occasional cockroach hurrying to whatever business cockroaches have... but what matters is what's on your plate : WYSIWYG food (what you see is what you get). It is cooked in front of you, products are fresh from the day (not stored for weeks in dubious conditions as in some big restaurants... worlwide).
There is one basic rule when it comes to picking the right stall : see where the Thais go, never pick a deserted place.
Often a stall is specialized in one dish, among others you can find :

Kwai Teaw, a noodle soup with either pork (Moo), chicken (Kai), duck (Pet) or seafood (Talay). There are 4 kinds of noodles : the wide ones (Sen Yai), the normal one (Sen Lek), the vermicelli (Sen Mee) and the translucent vermicelli (Woon Sen). Seasoning is for you to do with chilly powder, fish sauce, pepper, sugar, peanuts...
Tom Yam, a spicy and very tasty soup with vegetables, herbs and Shrimps (Khung) or seafood, or chicken. Served with rice on the side.
Tom Ka, a sweet soup with coconut milk and shrimps or chicken or seafood.
Kao Soi, a yellow noddles with curry (spicy) sauce and chicken.
Kao Kha Moo, a delicious pork leg served with rice, pickled cabage and a boiled egg. Say 'Mai Aow Nang' if you don't want they serve you the skin.
Suki, a vermicelli soup with egg, vegetables, seafood (or chicken) and a very special (spicy) sauce.
Kao Man Kai, steamed chicken served with rice and a unique sauce (non spicy) made of ginger, garlic and other secret ingredients.
Pad Thai, noodles fried with tofu, eggs, peanuts, onions, soja, dried shrimps
In addition some stalls will propose all kind of stir fried dishes (with or without meat), you can pick the vegetables of your choice, they cook them with oyster sauce... delicious.

There are two dishes that must be tried with caution:

Som Tam, papaya salad best eaten with sticky rice.
Yam Woon Sen, a vermicelli salad served with onions, seafood or sliced sausages
Both are very spicy and some ingredients might not be to your stomach liking (high level of weird bacteria in the Som Tam).

In general prefer the dishes that will be cooked upon order, beware those strange deep fried stuff, noone really knows since when or how many times they've been cooked.
Note: the water and the ice served (most of the time free of charge) at these stalls is perfectly safe.

In Chiang Mai, you'll find these stalls at every market. Some open in the day others in the evening or at night.
Next to the 3 Kings Monument there is a street where you can try great kwai teaw, kao man kai and kao soi, until 4 PM.
On the Chang Puak gate, starting 6 PM there are many very good stalls, great for Kao Kha Moo.
For a good Pad Thai, a stall opens in the evening next to the Irish Pub.
During the Sunday Market, between the Thapae Gate and the Wat Phra Sing, stalls are set in the temples along the way, here you can try the deep fried stuff, it's freshly made.
and if you're hungry in the middle of the night, you can go opposite the Vista Hotel (not far from the Thai Airways main office) they serve noodle soup with little fish balls and some Dim Sum.


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